Apeks, Aqualung, US Divers, Spiro, Poseidon, Scubapro, Sherwood, Mares, Oceanic & others
All of our work is managed by Martin Sampson. We pride ourselves in our approach to servicing your diving equipment by taking the attitude that we are servicing life support equipment. We have invested heavily in our facilities, tools, and training. Underpinning the manufacturers training is Martin’s 13 years experience in aerospace & defence engineering and materials science which has influenced our whole approach to quality assurance.
Draeger Rebreathers, regulators and full face masks
We have an extensive stock of parts for Draeger rebreathers and can carry out minor and major repairs. Please contact Martin Sampson to discuss your requirements.
Oxygen Cleaning of cylinders, cylinder valves and regulators
We have procedures in place to clean and service cylinders and regulators for use with nitrox and oxygen. In keeping with industry practice we recommend that this be carried out annually on equipment used with nitrox and oxygen.
Cylinders are tested in accordance with latest EN standards. Cylinders used for diving are required to be tested every 2 1/2 years (from Sept 2002). We can also advise on correct cylinder labelling.
Overhaul of Buoyancy Compensators
These are often ignored but are a crucial part of your life support system. The overhaul of direct feed units, bladders and valves is not usually expensive.
Battery changes for dive computers
We keep in stock battery kits for Suunto computers and are agents for the Uwatec range of Aladin instruments. Please contact us for details of battery changes for other makes.
Minor suit repairs including latex seals
We are able to replace latex wrist and neck seals on most types of diving and watersports drysuits. Other minor repairs can also be carried out.
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Step 1 – Cursory Inspection
We check for the obvious such as perished mouthpieces, hoses and cracked valve bodies. At this point we can often provide you with a cost estimate. If we find something broken that looks expensive we will contact you before going any further.
Step 2 - Testing
We get the tools and gauges out and check the inter-stage pressure and also look for pressure creep. Many apparent problems with second stages are actually problems with first stages. For example a worn high pressure valve seat in the first stage will cause a ‘creeping’ inter-stage pressure rather than a constant pressure. Most second stages are designed as ‘downstream’ valves which means that if they are over pressurized they will be forced open. You then experience problems such as leaks at the second stage and even tendency to free flow. We then check the flow from the second stage. This is not a measured but subjective assessment of the second stage. For example, an Apeks Tx40 when properly set up will start to supply air when the purge button is depressed about 2mm. With the venturi switch set to '+' a Tx40 will readily free flow when the purge button is fully depressed. However this should stop promptly when the switch is pushed to ‘-‘ or when you put your hand over the mouthpiece to create back pressure. Finally we check for air leaks from the regulator and it’s fittings, and negative pressure leaks to see if you’ve been breathing water with your air.
Step 3 - Disassembly
By now we have a pretty good idea of what we’re looking for when we come to dismantle your regulator. So we take it to bits and separate all of the components to avoid confusion at reassembly. All of the parts are inspected closely and we report on the condition of the regulator. At this point we can really see how well your kit has been looked after. You name it and we have found it inside regulators; spiders and dried vomit to name but two of the unsavoury things we have discovered!
Step 4 - Cleaning
Metal parts go into the ultrasonic bath in a special solution depending on whether it’s de-scaling or degreasing that’s required. For plastic parts it’s nothing lavish, just hot water, detergent, and lots of elbow grease. The parts are displayed on trays and racked for drying. We even clean the ends of direct feeds and get the rubbish out of those.
Step 5 - Inspection (again)
It’s amazing what you spot once something is clean. Stress cracks in second stage casings are easier to spot with the dirt and sand out of the way as is wear and pitting on high pressure valves. Also we check the new service parts because even brand new service parts have been found to be faulty on rare occasions.
Step 6 - Reassembly
Now we start the head scratching and try to remember what went where (only joking!). With the aid of the relevant service manuals and assembly drawings we reassemble your regulator with only the manufacturers recommended service parts and lubricants.
Step 7 – Final Testing and Reporting
This is the quality assurance part of the process where we set up, adjust and finally test the performance of the regulator. Again, inter-stage pressure, pressure creep and flow are checked. We check for leaks and finally test the inhalation and exhalation resistance of the regulator. We then write everything up neatly on a service report and package the whole job together with the evidence (ie the old parts for you to inspect). The regulator is returned to you with our own 3 month parts and labour warranty. We are pleased to report that our warranty returns are less than 1% of our work.
Step 3 - Disassembly Step 4 - Cleaning Step 6 - Reassembly Step 7 - Final Testing
Take care with your choice of storage. A damp and dark second stage case is a perfect home for spiders.
Persistant use of the venturi control despite sand deposits has caused wear which will eventually cause a water leak into the second stage.
Sand found inside 2nd stage case.
Once we have serviced your regulator we return it to you with 3 months parts and labour warranty against faulty service parts or workmanship. However it does not guard against damage to your regulator caused through misuse nor neglect. Please adopt the following tips:
1. DO rinse your regulator in warm fresh water after every dive especially after use in salt or pool water. Soak your regulator for at least 20 minutes, preferably for as long as you dived. Capilliary action ensures that salt gets to sit in confined areas such as inside valve housings in balanced 2nd stages.
Above: Corrosion deposits cause inhalation controls to seize and shuttle valves to stick preventing the valve from sealing
The same capilliary action will (eventually) displace the salt when you soak your kit in fresh water. After a good soak dry with a clean cloth and purge the air through the regulator.
*** Be nice to your life support equipment ***
2. DO NOT allow water to enter the 1st stage via the filter. Always use the dust cap provided. The problem being that some manufacturers (you know who you are!!) only provide you with dust caps instead of waterproof caps. Nevertheless, the second you take your regulator off a cylinder put the cap on before it falls in the water, sand, mud, grass, grit, or anything else that we have found inside regulators (trust me, you don’t want to know). Incidentally, Anglesey Divers have sourced some waterproof caps for owners of regulators with DIN connections, they’re cheap too! Are we good to you or what?
3. DO NOT use compressed air to dry the 1st stage area. Water will be forced into the filter and into the 1st stage causing internal corrosion. And before you ask, this is not B.S. For some reason it became fashion to not only blow dry the dust cap but the first stage too. If your instructor taught you to do this then shoot the person who taught him. Engineering tolerances inside regulators are such that salt crystals and corrosion deposits don’t make good lubricants!
4. DO NOT leave aqualungs standing up. Lay them down with all 2nd stages and direct feeds inside the BC away from any sand and grit.
5. Regulators are not gardening tools! Talking of sand and grit, where do you secure your alternative air source? Hopefully it’s close to hand within 12 inches of your mouth. If it’s not, it might be dragging underneath you ploughing a neat furrow through the sand. It’s a bad enough day when you run out of air, but to then have to breathe an aerosol of air, water, and grit is probably going to cause a sense of humour failure.
6. DO use the correct size tools when changing direct feeds. Regulators and their fittings are made from plated brass which are easily damaged. Also, do not over-tighten fittings. Hose protectors have their uses but don’t push them over the hose nuts. When you subsequently need to change a direct feed, pulling on the hose protector can cause unnecessary stress to the hose.
7. DO NOT attempt to adjust the inter-stage pressure nor any other settings yourself. ‘nuff said. No really, I mean it.
8. DO present your regulator for service annually and get 10% off the next bill!! Is this a gimmick? No; because regular maintenance means we can offer advice to avoid expensive problems. We can prove that we have saved customers money where they have trusted us with the on-going servicing of their equipment.